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Day 51 – Turkmenabat to Mary

There is no way we can give a comprehensive overview of Turkmenistan but until this moment it has been rather surprising. While looking for a hotel last night, a car pulled up next to us and was willing to guide us to the hotel. When we stood in front of the hotel, a police car passed by and the friendly gentleman waved to the police and the police waved back… did he know the police? Was he undercover? Was he following us to make sure we were not de-routing from our route? Are we becoming paranoia?

Before we set-off for another border crossing today, a quite exciting one into the North Korea of Central Asia, we said goodbye to our fellow-travelers and good friends Chris and Matthias who are also a personification of Brand New China. They are driving on their Chinese Shineray motorbikes from Shanghai to Europe. Their stories are inspiring and funny and a big ‘jia you’ (Chinese ‘go for it’) for these two adventurers. Follow their stories here.

Welcome to pre-Russian Turkestan. Bukhara has buildings spanning a thousand years of history and really gives us a feeling of the ancient Silk Road. It’s easy to imagine Marco Polo and other adventures arrive at this city and feeling embraced by its charm after months combating the harshest climates on earth. The mosques, minarets and medressas really stand out with their detailed architecture, amazing colours and religious, serene atmosphere.

Take two: let’s try again to reach Bukhara. This time without an accident… and yes, the BYD drove again smooth as always and in the late afternoon we could enjoy a nice cup of tea overlooking the Kalon Minaret and surroundings.

On a stage, getting police escort through the city, camping in canyons, eating horses.. welcome to Kazakhstan! Watch our Episode 5 – On stage in Kazakhstan!

Watch it on Youtube or Youku.

Our nightmare came true: we got in a car crash on day 47, exactly half of our total journey. First off: we’re unhurt. But this is what happened:

I (Rogier) was driving, while Maren was navigating us through beautiful Samarkand looking for fuel, a scarcity in Uzbekistan.

Holy Samarkand, no name is so evocative of the Silk Road as Samarkand. Great historical figures have ruled or stayed in this city for many years: Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, Marco Polo, Amir Timur. We set off in the morning to discover this place ourselves and were blown away by its magical appearance.

On the road again! Driving for about 300 km to holy Samarkand, marking the midway point of our journey.

In this video episode, we’re are leaving China behind and are heading for the Kazakhstan border. But first, we get our last haircut in China. Watch our Episode 4 – Crossing the border from China to Kazakhstan!

Watch it on Youtube or Youku.

Turkmenistan, the North-Korea of Central Asia, and of all the ‘stans’ the hardest to get into. This country is also an essential link on our route from Shanghai to Rotterdam. Not being able to enter would mean to adjust plans and go from Uzbekistan across the Caspian Sea to Azerbaijan. Or to go north of the Caspian Sea through Russia? There are options but it would mean to have to skip Iran, which has been very high on our bucket list.

Day 51 – Turkmenabat to Mary

Day 50 – Uzbekistan to unknown Turkmenistan

Day 49 – Bukhara

Day 48 – Samarkand to Bukhara

Episode 5: On stage in Kazakhstan

Day 47 – Disaster half-way: car crash!

Day 46 – Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Day 45 – Tashkent to Samarkand

Episode 4: Crossing the border from China to Kazakhstan

Day 44 – Turkmenistan visa